Your Anti Aging Face Cream Hunt

There are so many anti aging face creams available that you may find yourself at a loss as to how to find the one formulated to most effectively reduce your own signs of aging. But you should limit your choices to an anti aging skin cream which contains both sunscreen, and cosmeceutical ingredients formulated to help your skin cells heal from the damages caused by aging. Cosmeceuticals include vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, and herbal extracts. If you are still confused about finding the right anti aging skin cream, spend the money to get advice from a dermatologist or skin care professional.

Finding The Best Anti Aging Face Cream

One thing you will never lack in your search for the ideal anti aging face cream is a wide assortment of choices. But this can be as much of a negative as a positive, simply because finding information to help you hone in on the one anti aging face cream which will be most effective for you can take much more time. Each anti aging face cream is manufactured according to a slightly different formula, and will work slightly differently on the face of each person who tries it.

That said, there are certain characteristics shared by all truly effective anti aging face creams. All of them contain sunscreen, because nothing is more damaging to your skin than direct exposure to sunlight. Unless you choose to wear a ski mask every time you go outdoors, your face is the one part of your body which is usually unprotected from the sun. So you should use an anti aging face cream with sun screen, and if yours doesn’t contain any, then supplement it with a sunscreen rated at least SPF 15.

Cosmeceuticals

You’ve probably heard the tem pharmaceutical. Now meet “cosmeceutical.” Cosmeceutical is a word coined to describe the benefits of a skin care product which will not only provide anti aging effects but can actually promote healing of your age damaged skin cells. The ingredients in a cosmeceutical anti aging face cream will include skin enriching vitamins and minerals, antioxidants, skin bleaching substances, and herbal extracts. Any top quality anti aging skin cream will be cosmeceutical.

Educate Yourself

But even if you drop a hundred dollars of an anti aging face cream, and it is not hard to do, you will be throwing your money away if the cream you choose is not appropriate for you skin’s specific needs. You need to educate yourself on what the various substances commonly found in anti aging skin cream will actually do to address different signs of aging, and then look for the particular cream which contains the most of the ingredients you need.

You’ll also have to pay close attention to the anti aging skin cream manufacturer’s instructions, so that you use the product in the correct amounts and at the correct intervals. If you are unsure about making a choice from among many products which seem to offer the same benefits, you should take the time to consult a skin care professional for suggestions.

Get Professional Advice If You Need It

Seeing a dermatologist or cosmetician for a skin consultation before buying your anti aging cream may initially mean some more money out of your pocket. But once you have targeted your specific skin aging problems and pinpointed the changes you may need to make to reduce them, you can focus on finding an anti aging face cream for long term use.

Anti aging face cream, and even top quality anti aging face cream, is not hard to find. But the secret lies in finding some which will work as well as possible with your other skin care products to keep you, as an individual, looking far younger than your years.

Part Four: Current and Future Anti-Aging Treatments

As previously noted, many anti-oxidants are essential nutrients. Natural anti-oxidants, like vitamin C and E, work synergistically. Anti-oxidants may be more effective if obtained from a diet rich in fruits and vegetables. Nutritionists recommend eating 6 or more daily servings of anti-oxidant rich fruits and vegetables. Everyone agrees the use of antioxidant supplements for anti-aging may be helpful, but there is no agreement on what the most effective supplement dosages should be.

Anti-aging medicine acknowledges that stress of all kinds causes aging but has not yet developed individualized treatment for this. There are countless sources of internal and external stress and individual stress levels vary greatly. One overlooked cause of internal stress is improper hydration. Water is essential in for the correct operation of many internal functions. Too little or too much water causes age producing stress. When one is old (80+) thirst perception declines and dehydration can easily set in. Other overlooked sources of stress are antioxidants themselves. High doses (or doses above certain yet unspecified amounts) of supplemental anti-oxidants are a known cause of stress.

To be helpful, antioxidant supplements must prevent other types of stress more than the stress they themselves create. Knowing the correct supplement dosages that can do this is an essential part of anti-aging treatment. A healthy young person in his twenties, who is properly nourished, will have less internal stress that an older individual in his sixties. For a young individual, lower amounts of antioxidants may be safer than higher amounts. A older person, whose many internal homeostatic mechanisms are less able to deal with internal stress, may benefit more from higher amounts of antioxidants. Theoretically an anti-oxidant based course of anti-ageing treatment will slow the rate at which cellular damage occurs. Cells will become “sick” more slowly. Over time, as fewer sick cells are replaced at a slower rate, the number of cells retaining longer telomere chains will be higher. You can then reasonably expect this to result in an increase in life expectancy. For now the recommended but imprecise approach to decrease the rate at which cellular damage occurs is to increase your per day intake of anti-oxidant rich fruits and vegetables, to slightly increase your intake of antioxidants, and to take various vitamins and small amounts of anti-aging supplements on a daily basis. One study has shown taking a good multivitamin supplement is associated with longer telomere length.

Ideally anti-aging treatment should to be fine tuned for each individual. The key here would be to measure and minimize the cumulative effects of different kinds of stress on an individual basis. Easily measurable practical bio-markers for various types of stress do not yet exist or are not being used. When they are used it will be easy to customize individual antioxidant dosages so that everyone have “optimum” levels throughout their life. “Optimum” levels would maintain a safe reserve of protective antioxidants in the body.

Next I will briefly discuss the most popular nutrients associated with anti-aging. The most popular of the anti-oxidants, vitamins, and nutrients often associated with good health and anti-aging include: beta-carotene (vitamin A), vitamin C, vitamin E, various Flavonoids,Omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, Co-enzyme Q10, Lycopene, Selenium.

There are dozens of supplements that are known to effectively treat specific symptoms of old age. A few of the better known supplements include: DMAE, Acetyl-l-carnitine, L-carnosine, Alpha Lipoic Acid, DHEA, L-arginine, and melatonin

Good food contains some of the anti-oxidants previously mentioned. A few other popular foods associated with anti-aging include: Green Tea, turmeric, and red wine.

All of the above have unique biological properties and, in my opinion, are “good” for you if taken in small or moderate amounts. Some (ex. vitamin C) may also be “good” for you in larger amounts. Various studies on each of these may conflict with each other. You need to carefully research each substance on your own but researchers have already found several nutrients to be associated with longer than average telomere lengths. These include: Green Tea, Omega-3, Vitamins A, C, D, and E.

Vitamin E has been associated with telomere lengthening anti-aging properties.

Green tea contains many antioxidants, including vitamin C, E and flavenoids.Flavenoids form a large antioxidant class (including catechins and quercetin) that has many anticarcinogenic, antihypercholesterolemic, antibacterial, (helps prevent dental caries), and anti-inflammatory properties. The leaves of the tea plant are rich in polyphenols. The consumption of 3 cups or more of green tea daily has been associated with longer than average telomere length.

The Omega-3s are essential long-chain polyunsaturated fatty acids that are anti-inflammatory and help prevent heart disease, stroke, memory loss, depression, arthritis, cataract, cancer. Omega-3s slow down the shortening of telomeres; i.e. they may protect against aging on a cellular level.

Vitamin C is an abundant internal water soluble antioxidant that protects cellular components against free-radical formation caused by pollution and cigarette smoke. Many studies have associated high vitamin C intakes with lower rates of cancer of the mouth, larynx and esophagus. Vitamin C has shown promise in treating premature aging and possibly aging itself.

Due to limitations on the number of links I can incorporate into this article I could not provide more reference links supporting the preceding paragraphs. If interested please email me at the email address shown at the end of this article and I will forward them to you.

The sooner you start some sort of anti-aging treatment the better but it is never too late to start. All real treatments will help you maintain a longer than average average telomere chain length.

The goal of the programmed death theory of aging is to address the root causes of aging. This goal includes attempts to slow or reverse the telomere shortening process. Two such treatments are: TA 65 and human genetic engineering.

TA 65 is a telomerase activating product produced and marketed by Sierra Sciences. The key ingredient in TA 65 is Astragalus, a plant extract known to have telomerase activation properties. The product may work but I do not recommend it for several reasons. TA 65 is too expensive for the average person. A number of expensive health spas incorporate TA 65 in their programs. Again these are financially beyond the reach of the average person. The marketing tactics of Sierra Sciences have been questioned by many and there are law suits pending against TA 65.

Anti Aging Cream – Marketer’s Fantasy?

While the anti aging creams now available over the counter to the millions of women, and, yes, men, concerned about looking as young as possible for as long as possible almost all contain the same ingredients, their marketers present each one as something unique. You, as a consumer, need to learn how an anti aging cream is formulated, so that you can find the one with the right concentration of ingredients to help your skin. And you can also take other steps in your personal care regimen to ward off the effects of aging. Anti aging cream can’t do it alone.

The Skin(ny) on Anti Aging Cream

If you were a fan of the TV sitcom Everybody Loves Raymond, you may remember the many scenes in which Raymond’s wife Deborah would spend time applying anti again cream to her hands. And even though she was a fictional character, her actions are repeated by millions, if not billions, of women the world over every day. The anti aging cream is seen as one of the best defenses against the ravages of time, but is it really all it’s cracked up to be?

The maker of every anti aging cream on the market is hoping that you, whether female or male, will believe that it is. Yes, even mean are not being targeted with anti aging cream from such men’s grooming products manufacturers as Biotherm. But no matter what the packaging on any anti aging cream may promise, you should not expect miracles.

Marketing Ploys

The marketers of any anti aging cream are fully conscious that almost every woman has a deep seated fear of the wrinkles, lines, and age spots which seem inevitable as she ages. So these marketers are not ashamed to claim that their products have been shown, with scientific proof, to fight such signs of aging, even though their scientific proof may be nothing more than the power of suggestion.

Almost every anti aging cream will have retinol as an ingredient, and retinol is said to give its users a more youthful appearance both by stimulating new skin cell production and by decreasing the appearance of age spots. Some anti aging creams will contain both alpha and beta hydroxyl acid, which act as mild chemical peels, but the effectiveness of any of these ingredients will depend on their levels of concentration, and their correct application.

Well Known Anti Aging Creams

Clinique has been a maker of a line of anti aging cream since 1992, when it introduced its Stop Signs anti aging cream. Since then Clinique has developed several skin care products aimed at reducing lines, wrinkles, and the other effects of aging.

Olay, whose Oil of Olay has been around for decades, entered the anti aging cream market with its Olay Regenerist, which gets the highest marks among all anti aging creams tested by a consumer protection group. Olay markets its products by encouraging you to “love the skin you’re in.”

Help Your Anti Aging Cream Help You

You probably know from experience that the cosmetic departments at your favorite retail establishments from the local pharmacy to the biggest department stores are simply awash in anti aging creams from the simple to the exotic and from the affordable to the absurdly expensive. A quality anti aging cream can certainly provide benefits, helping reduce the signs of aging, but you should not expect miracles. There are plenty of things you can do on your own to keep Father Time away from your door.

Using a sunscreen on your face, even when it’s cloudy; drinking at least eight glasses of water a day to keep you skin hydrated, and eating lots of fresh fruits and vegetables to help you stay detoxified will all have remarkable effects on your skin. Using anti aging cream as a supplement to these measures will certainly help you retain a young appearance as long as possible, but don’t think any anti aging cream will turn back the clock all by itself.

The Solution to Anti-Aging Skin Care

The anti-aging skin care field has boomed, with hundreds of new products being introduced to the market on what feels like almost on a daily basis. This has resulted in what we may call “skin care overload.” People have become overwhelmed and confused by the countless number of ingredients we are told are necessary for anti-aging. It has become impossible to access and apply even a fraction of these ingredients due to the cost and time involved. We feel compelled to buy multiple products every month and layer them on in order to do the most for our skin. But, as we fill our medicine cabinets with creams and serums, we are faced with the daily questions of which shall we use, which are safe and which actually work?

It has been long overdue that the various categories of anti-aging and the anti-aging ingredients themselves be ordered and categorized so that a comprehensive approach to anti-aging may be put into place. Firstly, there are many features to skin aging and people will show one or more features over time, but may differ in the features of skin aging that plague them. For example, some people develop sagging or laxity to the skin due to genetic factors, but may have little or no sun damage. Others may be covered with sun spots but have no sagging or wrinkling. The following is a validated classification scheme which allows for each clinical feature of skin aging to be assessed separately on a 4-point grading scale (mild, moderate, advanced, severe):

Classification of Skin Aging:
Laxity (Sagging)
Wrinkles
Redness
Brown discolorations
Solar elastosis (Yellowing)
Irregular texture
Abnormal growths (keratoses).1

This classification scheme of skin aging includes a severity scale as mentioned above (0=None, 1=Mild, 2=Moderate, 3=Advanced, and 4=Severe) which allows researchers or users to rank each individual person’s skin aging according to feature and severity. This scale was shown to be very useful in testing anti-aging treatments and has been published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology.1 Older scales tended to lump different features together into broad categories, which became less useful as treatments became more specific in targeting various facets of skin aging; for example as anti-pigment or anti-redness or anti-wrinkle. With this current anti-aging scale, our anti-aging products may be quantitatively tested to determine which individual categories of skin aging they treat and how effective they are in each category. This also allows us to hone our anti-aging regimen to our needs and to compile or group the ingredients in each category that are most effective so as to cover all categories of anti-aging in a logical manner.

The next challenge was to classify the plethora of anti-aging ingredients on the market based on the features of skin aging that they targeted or treated. I then created a classification scheme of the categories of anti-aging targeted by the ingredients that have emerged over the past decade:
Anti-Wrinkle – DNA Defense – Barrier Fortification
Anti-Redness – Cellular Restore – Emollient/Moisturizer
Anti-Brown Discoloration – Damage Reversal – Pro-Skin Thickness
Anti-Oxidants – Aging Repair – Re-Texturize

With this classification scheme, we can appreciate why people have become so overwhelmed and why they have accumulated shopping bags full of skin creams in order to meet their needs! Nevertheless, as anti-aging ingredients have emerged targeting each of these categories, ideally one would want to incorporate the best ingredients of each category in a single daily regimen to optimally treat skin aging.

Each individual may differ in which category of anti-aging they need most, yet in order to prevent and reverse all the signs of skin aging, it is still optimal for all categories to be covered by an anti-aging regimen. It is important to familiarize yourself with which ingredients fall in each category, so that you can incorporate several of each group into your skin regimen, or look for a product that covers the various categories of anti-aging in a logical way. Examples of key active ingredients shown to yield resulst in each category of anti-aging include: peptides for anti-wrinkles, plant-derived polyphenols and bisabolol for anti-redness, amino acids for anti-brown discolorations, vitamins C, E and ferulic acid for anti-oxidant, DNA repair molecules such as acetyl tyrosine and proline for DNA defense, resveratrol for cellular restore, bark extract or phoretin for damage reversal, Helianthus annuus and Ilex paraguensis extracts for aging repair, dimethicone for barrier repair, glycerin and soy lecithin for emollients, hyaluronic acid for boosting skin thickness, and mushroom extracts and sodium lactate for smoothening abnormal texture.

In sum, the field of anti-aging now has validated classification systems for the various categories of skin aging and for the plethora of anti-aging ingredients so that we can assess and determine which anti-aging actives we want in our medicine cabinet and to make certain that we cover the various categories of anti-aging in our daily regimen. With this scientific basis, we may now intelligently assess anti-aging products for their ability to comprehensively cover all the various categories of skin aging and include the various categories of anti-aging ingredients available. Finally, these comprehensive, validated classification and grading scales provide a framework for solving the anti-aging conundrum with a system for categorizing skin aging and classifying anti-aging actives to make sure you cover all your skin’s anti-aging needs.

(C) NY Derm LLC, 2010.

1) Alexiades-Armenakas, M, et al. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology 2008 May;58(5):719-37; quiz 738-40.

Dr. Macrene Alexiades-Armenakas M.D., Ph.D., F.A.A.D., Derm-Scientist®, holds three Harvard degrees, a bachelors of arts (BA), a medical degree (MD) and a doctorate (PhD) in genetics, is double Board-Certification in Dermatology in the US and EU and Director of her own Private Practice and Research Clinic in Manhattan. Her 20+ year background in research included plant molecular biology, cell and developmental biology, genetics, photobiology and mammalian stem cell biology. She served as consultant to L’Oreal, ran clinical trials for pharmaceutical and laser companies, and serves as beauty judge to many magazines, including Allure and In Style.

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